Mother’s Love Bonds

Kerry & TC hanging with the Masai

Kerry & TC hanging with the Masai

When I was in Tanzania with my good friend Kerry, we visited a Masai village and took part in the women’s dance. Of course there were children and of course Kerry, the architypical mom, gushed. She was a newly minted Grand-mom and it took very little encouragement for her to whip out photos of the newly minted granddaughter. The change in those Masai women was moving. We…ok, Kerry,  morphed from being just another tourist to a MOM!, not just a mom but a GRANDMOTHER!! When it was established that I was not in this sacred group, I was pushed to the edge of the mob rushing in to see Kerry’s photos. I was stunned. And awed. The image has never left me. There was my Kerry, little white woman of a certain age, dressed in her best safari kakis, surrounded by tall, black women of all ages, draped in their brilliant plaid blankets and adorned with layers of beaded jewellery. Since I wasn’t a mom, I never witnessed this phenomenon and since Kerry was well over her gushing stage with her own children, it never occurred to her to play the mother card when she travelled. But in the throes of grandmother fever, her love poured forth and enchanted these women. That was their language – love. Unconditional love for their defenceless fragile offspring. An evolutionary mechanism that ensures the survival the species, it has taken on mystic proportions.  It should be a bond that transcends culture, language and even species. You don’t need to be a mom to recognize that love. It tugs at your heart and takes you back to when you were loved or how you wish you had been loved, by your mom. I recognize it not only in humans but in animals as well. To stand and watch a mother gorilla faun over her baby or an elephant wrap her trunk protectively around her son, is to know you stand in the presence of that mystic bond. You know, without a doubt, that whether human or not, most moms would lay down their lives to protect their off-spring. And it makes us feel all warm and fuzzy to be near it.

photo credit futurepath.org

photo credit futurepath.org

To all the moms out there, I pray that today of all days you are surrounded by all the love that you have nurtured and know how much you are loved. While every day should honour moms, Happy Mother’s Day to you all, no matter the colour, culture or species, your love has made us what we are today. How do you honour your Mother on this her special day? Have you ever had a ‘mom’ experience travelling?

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A Thai Walk

Last day at Elephant Nature Park , only a few hours before the van would take me to the airport and away from this amazing place. So my 2 BFFs and I decided to hike to the hill temple … however a few minutes shuffling on the side of the dusty road had us reconsidering such a monumental challenge and we quickly downgraded the mission to the bar by the river where our tubers would launch… that way we might just score a ride home after the guys dropped the volunteers off for a Sunday river ride.

View from the road.

View from the road.

It was a lazy shamble down a dusty road, with women who were closer to me than time together gave them any right to be. I loved and admired them, but more, I was in awe of them. Their youth was not used as an excuse to not care and not ‘do‘. Their passion and compassion were worn as comfortably as an old tee-shirt. And they laughed, a lot and well. That they liked and enjoyed my company was a buzz I couldn’t get enough of. And here we were together for one last adventure, ambling along a sunny country road in northern Thailand, chattering like we had known each other for years, instead of a week. What a wonderful dream.

Suddenly we heard the stressed out sound of a golf cart motor being asked too much of, coming around the corner behind us… it could only be POM! Manager of ENP, she was Lek’s intrepid woman-friday, who took ‘stoic’ to new heights. Grinning, we begged a ride to the bar, thus tormenting the poor engine further on the very hill we wanted to avoid, with even more people in it. Timing is everything. Pom took us all the way before turning around to go where ever she was going before we hijacked her. I would have loved a chance to get to know her, believing she hid a wicked sense of humour behind that gruff facade.

The bar was made up of wood thrown into the air and quickly nailed together before it fell to earth. After grabbing beer and Magnums we threw ourselves onto the benches around the corner table over-looking the river. Ahhh Magnum bars, the food of choice of volunteers: creamy ice cream full of nuts and carmel and coated in chocolate, there was nothing like it with a Singh beer. Sigh.

She had us at the first smile!

She had us at the first smile!

A young Downs girl, around 9 years old, sidled up to our table, not shy exactly, more like testing the waters of our attitudes. We smiled a welcome and she warmed up and flirted her way into our hearts. She was enchanting as only a child who knows unconditional love could be, unselfconscious, confident in her worth to be accepted; she kept us entertained until the ENP truck arrived full of tubes and volunteers full of loud boisterous river energy. After they were launched, we jumped into the back of the truck and hung on for dear life.

TC loving the moment!

TC loving the moment!

 
This is one of my favourite things to do, riding in the back of an old truck down back roads. We clung to the sides as we bumped and swerved along a road made up of more pot holes than asphalt. The lush green trees dappling the sun against our skin and we smiled like we would burst from sheer joy.
 
 
 
 
 
Kelly in Thailand

I took a picture of Kelly that encapsulates how we all felt, her head thrown back in mid-laugh, at nothing and at everything. In that moment there was such joy, an abundance of joy. It just can’t get any better than that. In the back of a beat up old truck, with awesome friends, in the sun, the middle of no-where, in Thailand, volunteering at an elephant rescue centre. Seriously? Fucking ridiculous how happy I was in that moment. I deliberately refused to think about leaving because I just couldn’t think of a way to stay, so, for once, I didn’t let it ruin the moments of bliss that I got to experience in the now.

Hemini in the glorious Thai sun.

Hemini in the glorious Thai sun.

Glorious Thai afternoon.

Thai afternoon in the back of a truck!

Will I ever go back? Those two women were so much a part of the experience, so important to how much I enjoyed myself, what would it be like without them? Of course, the elephants would be there, and it was all about the elephants. But what I keep coming up against is what can I bring to the table? What value can I offer to this important place, important mission? 2 weeks of scrubbing and cutting fruit and vegetables, cutting grass and bamboo, cleaning elephant shit up, that was fine and good. But going back and doing the same thing again? As well, being 60+, I feel like my physical contribution may be ebbing. I want to be with the ellies, I want to contribute to their well being, but other than with money, (which I have so little of) but then, what? Again, I am faced with purpose – mine. What is the point of me? What can I bring to any party I go to? Why would anyone really be happy to have me on their team? How can I get to this age and still be so unskilled at anything worth doing? Way too many ????? and it is late. The memory of that day, of that adventure, had come back so clear as I started to fall asleep that it woke me up crying, demanding to be written down. I close my eyes and I am back there smelling the dust and the sun and feeling the ghost of the smiles on my cheeks and the tears start again. Such precious precious moments. I am so greedy for more but I know that if i get too hungry, I will scare them away

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My Bucket List for the Elephant Nature Park

Everyone seems to love doing a bucket list and, as per usual, I have avoided it. Though I have referenced it on occasion there actually isn’t actually one. Which begs the question, why is the Crone now doing one? Well cause I want to play in the blog carnival that the Elephant Nature Park is putting on to celebrate their 10th anniversary on their land in Thailand (check out the awesome photo album)… and I pretty much do what they want. :)

Before launching into this thing, I am stating a caveot: the sucker can change at the drop of a hat, a glass of wine or a mood.

1. I do feel obligated to state the Elephant Nature Park, even though I have been there. I would go back over and over… especially if I had my own little hut close to Jodi and then we could go sit and draw elephants together…

Elephant Nature Park is a unique project set in Chiang Mai province, Northern Thailand. Established in the 1990′s our aim has always been to provide a sanctuary and rescue centre for elephants. The park is located some 60km from the city, and has provided a sanctuary for dozens if distressed elephants from all over Thailand.

2. The Put Foot Rally, the more I write about this thing the more it is growing in me.

The Put Foot Rally is approximately, roughly, sort-of-in-the region of 8000km (give or take a 500kms’ish)…. maybe more… maybe less, travelling across 5 incredible countries (6 if you book a wrong turn and end up in Angola or Kenya… although not advised!).
30 Crews will depart from South Africa, driving in a clockwise direction as they make their way to a Checkpoint in each country over the course of 18 days.

3. Take the B.C. ferry up to Haida Gwaii and hang out on the islands, kayaking, hiking and just meditating on the incredible vib that many claim to have found up there.

A series of islands at the most westerly point of Northern British Columbia, Haida Gwaii is made up of ancient temperate rainforests, quaint villages, secluded inlets, and beaches that stretch as far as the eye can see. A place so remote that roads cannot bring you here, yet the warmest of welcomes await once you arrive.

4. Take a road trip through Nanimbia and volunteer at EHRA ( elephant human relations aid) ( They’re celebrating their 10th anniversary too!). Combining my love of elephants and road trips seems a no brainer. One of the things that I have learnt from the few volunteer places I have been is that rescueing animals is not enough, humans that live around these animals need to be helped as well. There is no way we will ever convince a villager that elephants are not his enemy when he is standing beside his stomped home. This organizations seems to really focus on projects that help facilitate good relationships between elephants and humans as well as conservation efforts. Yah them!

Elephant Human Relations Aid is an Namibian registered not for gain organisation (registration number 21/2003/630) which runs an elephant conservation and volunteer project in Namibia, Africa.
EHRA aims to find long-term sustainable solutions to the ever-growing problem of facilitating the peaceful co-habitation between the subsistence farmers, community members and the desert adapted elephants.

5. Spend a year RV’ing across Canada and the U.S. It would be so awesome to have such a large block of time to meander and poke around, discovering the small quiet gems that are often missed when one only has 2 weeks.

6. The Northern Lights. I spent a year in Thompson, Manitoba and some time in La Ronge, Saskatchewan and the Northern Lights got into my blood stream bad. I would be driving up to La Ronge by myself in the middle of winter in my VW bug and they would start to dance. I would literally be in the middle of this amazingly forest and I would turn off the car, get out and stand with my head thrown back, drinking in their magic as they slinked across that frozen sky. A friend from the reserve told me that the Indians believe that if you whistle at them they would suck you up, never to be heard from again. I whistled, but they never came. So I would love to once again, stand in the frozen air and whistle at the Norther Lights of Canada’s north. Watch a sample on youtube so you too can be hooked.

7. Copper Canyon Train in Mexico.  This one has been hanging around in my brain like a worm for a while, time I did it. I love trains so this one through some of the most stunning environment ever is the draw. One of the great things is that you can jump off and on ( but only when they stop, no James Bonding please ) so you can explore the small villages along the route.

8. Chug around Europe and experience their amazing web of train systems and explore the plethora of culture and stuff. I lived for 3 years in Germany growing up and was too young to really appreciate the opportunity, though it was a blast. And they have trains, lots and lots of trains! I feel like I am channeling Sheldon. :)

9. Tented safari in Botswana. This stunning country and its wild animals and few tourists has huge appeal. I have experienced Kenya and Tanzania and certainly would enjoy the less crowdedness of Botswana.

So if I win the lottery I could go this way: Africa Exclusive

or this way: African Budget Safari

10. RV’ing around Australia. Its wild west feisty independent eccentric personality has been luring me for a while and I think the best way to experience is with a 4×4 camper! Yee Haw! I am such a sucker for a good ad!

Check out this vid on youtube and see why it is on my bucket list!

“My top 10 bucket list post is a part of Save Elephant Foundation’s blog carnival to celebrate the 10-year anniversary ofElephant Nature Park. Elephant Nature Park is celebrating 10 years of success protecting the Asian elephant, educating tourists and tour operators alike that there is another way for us to interact with these wonderful animals. Please take a moment to visit their website, visit their Facebook, and connect with them on Twitter.”

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How to Become a Warrior for Elephants.

damn, missed the seals and whales.

damn, missed the seals and whales.

This damn post is taking forever! I have put such pressure on myself, like I am solely responsible for turning everyone who reads my blog into a Warrior for the Elephants. Intellectually I know I’m not, but… A few of you might have noticed I am a tad passionate about animals. Really. A few months ago a FB friend de-friended me. :( Now she wasn’t  a close friend (thank gawd, otherwise this could have been a much tearier post) but I really like her so I was quite hurt. Turns out the stuff I was re-posting about all the bad crap that happens to animals was freaking her out. Her beloved dog had just passed on and she just couldn’t take it anymore. I get that, I totally get that. There are days when my heart literally aches for those animals. But here’s the thing: if we don’t know what is happening, we can’t help fix it. If we don’t know any better, we’ll just keep doing harmful shit. But how can we share information with people and not repel them?

photo credit: Sulamita Youth Choir

photo credit: Sulamita Youth Choir

Cause if that happens, hon, we are just preaching to the choir! So that is why this post is taking so long, I don’t want to repel, I just want to share some of the knowledge I got while at the Elephant Nature Park. So here goes. Most of the people I know have been to Thailand and all of them (I think) have ridden elephants and/or bought elephant paintings and every last one of them love animals. I know they didn’t think they were hurting them,  they just didn’t know the back story.

warrior

My inner warrier!

I was lucky, I found Lek, the founder of the Elephant Nature Park, and was able to learn about that back story. Lek, the founder of Elephant Nature Park, gave a talk one evening for everyone in the park who wanted to drop in; needless to say, it was standing room only. She has completely committed her life and soul to saving elephants (not to mention all the other critters she can’t say ‘no’ to). That night she deputized each of us to be ‘Warriors for the Elephant’. Instead of money (though Goddess knows the need for that never ends), she wants us to raise awareness. Lek is knows that Thailand’s economy depends on tourist dollars and as such, sees a boycott as counter-productive. Instead she wants us to vote with our money. So how do we become Warriors for the Elephant?

TC & Chet - elephant warriors!

TC & Chet – elephant warriors!

Personally I wanted to wield a machete but apparently that is not sanctioned by head-office. :) Say ‘Yes’ to places like the Elephant Nature Park and Boon Lot Elephant Sanctuary, where the elephants/human encounters are more peer-like. You will get to feed them, make friends and relax and watch how they are when they are not stressed and freaked. Way cooler.

Ele/volunteer bath. (photo credit Cat Ghislaine Garber)

Ele/volunteer bath. (photo credit Cat Ghislaine Garber)

The park will even give you human treats and refreshments. You will also get to go into the river with some and give them a ‘bath’, which usually translates into the people get more wet that the elephants but it is soooo fun! At home we can refuse to go to circuses and zoos, instead spending our entertainment dollars on things that support wildlife in their natural environment. Hiking on trails in nature, bird watching in the wet lands, only going whale watching that is respectful of the animals; these are some of the choices we can make that make a positive impact. Also subscribing to cable channels like ‘Oasis’ is entertaining and educational. When you are in Thailand, don’t feed the street elephants, the impact on these sensitive animals being in the city is brutal. They are often hit by cars and truck; drunks torment them, often being violent. Their feet and ears are so sensitive to vibrations and sounds that it has been proven they can communicate with other elephants up to 40 miles away. Imagine what the pavement and the noise and vibrations do to them? They are in a constant state of shock. The babies are traumatized because in the wild they are never apart from their mothers and aunties and nurse at least 2 1/2 years. When all the action ends in the entertainment areas they are trudged “home”miles away to under a bridges, hiding from authorities, to forage in the garbage for something to eat. They need up to 660 lbs. of food daily, the little they had manage to get by begging doesn’t begin to scratch the surface of what they need to survive.

Bad Karma!

Bad Karma!

Instead choose elephant parks that provide a natural, non-stressful environment for the elephant. Just spending time with an elephant is such an honor as well as a moving experience, so much more than riding her. If you absolutely need to ride an elephant, choose a place that allows you to ride on his neck, which is one of the strongest parts an elephant’s body. Refuse to go on a howdah (wooden seat). An elephant’s back is herweakest point and not made to carry weight; also the straps  cause chafing, going untreated and often getting infected. And, of course, there is the ever present hook. You will be told  it never hurts the elephant, that it is only to guide them, that their hides are thick and tough. They are thick but not tough, that is why elephants are constantly trying to protect it from the sun by swimming and then throwing dirt all over themselves and using mud baths. The hooks hurt and they cause bloody wounds. I could easily torment you with details and videos of the “back story” of how elephants come to be at the trekking companies, painting pictures, playing music, playing at the beach, there are plenty of them. I will list links, if you are interested in the details but I won’t force you to see it. Just know that it is ugly beyond comprehension. Elephants have been roaming this earth longer than us, over 14,000 mind-boggling years. And now they are in real danger of disappearing for good, because of us. The families stay together forever and the babies are raised by their moms as well as their aunties. Elephants have complex social relationships and experience joy and grief as much as we do. They don’t ever forget, but lucky for us, they often forgive. They deserve to be treated with kindness and respect.

Photo credit: Lek

Mom and the aunties gather around the baby in love and in protection.   Photo credit: Lek

Please share this information with your friends and urge them to pass it on to their friends. This is how a good warrior works these days, but just in case I am going to keep my machete sharpened. :)

In case you want more info check out the links below:

 
 
So what do you think? Are you repelled? Are we still friends?
 
 
 

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The 24 Hour Shock

In 24 hours the Crone went from this:

Yelapa beach

Yelapa beach

To this:

Vancouver beach

Vancouver beach

There are no words… well, maybe there are but not here. Their place is wailing into my pillow. I just need a few days and I’ll be alright, I did bring home a couple of jugs of tequila, they’ll help. How do you cope with the the crash after a long trip ends?

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Last Day in Mexico

Well I am purring a bit with contentment.

On the water taxi in from Yelapa we got treated to a dolphin playing in our bubbles and multiple sting rays leaping into the sunlight.

PV Party on the Beach!

PV Party on the Beach!

Pulled into the dock and PV was in full Saturday frenzy! The beach was full of bodies of all colours and orientation, all committed to having the absolute best time ever! It can’t help but be contagious. I scoot to the ol’ money machine and TA DA! It spits money out! Magic. :)

I braved the crowds to wander/bump my way through the Farmers’ Market, enjoying the authentic wares of the artists, artisans and farmers of PV. So wonderful after the deluge of “made in China” crap that is the norm around here. I even got interviewed by a local tv reporter!

Now I am up on the rooftop deck of Joe Jack’s Fish Shack.…..

Clan heads of the McConnell Clan

Clan heads of the McConnell Clan

Oh sorry, the food came, so I dropped you like a hot potato! Sooooo good! I look up while woofing it in and who should I spy with my little eye? Why if it isn’t the infamous heads of the McConnell clan having lunch with some friends a few table away! PV is just so freaking comfortable that way, it takes so little time to make friends and develop favorite little hang-outs and rituals.

I leave at 7:40pm so I’d better be off to cram in a little more of Vallarta charm. Or maybe I’ll order another beer and join my friends. :)

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Alone with Willy and the Crickets

Wooly, the Whippet

Wooly, the Whippet

Well, here I am, curled up on the couch with Wooly, the Whippet, trying not to succumb to the lure of the ‘This time next week I will be back in Vancouver working at my job’ game. It is way more fun to play it at the other end of a trip.. you know ‘This time next week I will be hugging an elephant in Thailand’ one?

Everyone has flaked off, the families have all moved on, Maria has gone to celebrate her Grandfather’s 90th birthday in Mexico City, Michel and Naiomi have gone to do whatever couples get up to. It’s now dark, the crickets have cranked the volume and the mosquitoes are in full attack mode. Gawd I hate those things… tiny with teeth bigger than they are. fuckers. I do have a party to go to. Good thing I have you guys to talk to, otherwise I might be lonely.

It will be good to be home, hugging the kitties and listening to my roomie bitch about her job.

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